Little Island, Big Fun
WHY HAWAII'S "BIG ISLAND" MORE THAN LIVES UP TO ITS NAME
by Bret Love
With a total area of 4,028 square miles– less than one-tenth the size of Georgia– the island of Hawaii's nickname, "The Big Island," would appear something of a misnomer. But what the Big Island lacks in geographical size it more than makes up for in ecological diversity, boasting 11 different ecosystems that includes the tallest mountain in the world, an arid desert, humid tropical jungles, postcard-worthy beaches and the world's most active volcano.
We began our Hawaiian adventure in the tiny town of Holualoa. Though it's just a short drive from the hustle and bustle of Kailua-Kona, our stay at the quaint Holualoa Inn (www.holualoainn.com) felt far removed from the trappings of civilization. We had to slow our rental car to avoid hitting a wild boar, and our pastoral stroll through the B&B's tropical gardens and coffee farm was interrupted only by birds and mongooses in search of their morning meal. Yet its location made Holualoa Inn a perfectly tranquil base from which to explore the nearby coast.
Our trip got off to a rousing start on Captain Zodiac's Raft, Snorkel & Dolphin Adventure (www.captainzodiac.com), a 4-hour trek that takes visitors to Kealakekua Bay, the site where Captain Cook landed upon first discovering Hawai'i. But the excitement began long before we got there, with the sightings of a breaching humpback whale with young calf in tow and a massive school of hammerhead sharks. The bay seemed tame by comparison, with its natural harbor providing a buffer from the pounding surf and allowing amazing opportunities to snorkel with Honu (Hawaiian green sea turtles) and a cornucopia of tropical fish.
On the way back we stopped at Pu'uhonua o Honaunau National Historical Park (www.nps.gov/archive/puho/home.htm), a place of refuge where, until the early 19th century, Hawaiians who broke one of the ancient laws, defeated warriors and non-combatants alike could find safe haven. The 420-acre complex of archaeological sites was once home to several generations of powerful chiefs, and now includes temple platforms, coastal village sites and a reconstructed version of the original sacred temple.
The second leg of our trip found us cutting across the island to visit Hawai'i Volcanoes National Park (www.nps.gov/havo), designated a World Heritage Site in 1987. The park, which encompasses both the world's most massive volcano (Mauna Loa) and its most active (Kilauea, which has been erupting continuously since 1983), had changed considerably since my previous visit in 2006. Then, my team visited the Halema'uma'u crater, the sacred home of the volcano goddess Pele, where we left an offering only to be blessed with a rare double rainbow. But in 2008 a volcanic explosion damaged the overlook on which we'd stood and covered part of Crater Rim drive, hinting that perhaps Pele had had enough visitors. Still, we had a great time hiking through the Thurston Lava Tube, learning about the park at the Visitor Center, and browsing for art at the Volcano Art Center (www.volcanoartcenter.org).
Drenched by a downpour, we made our way to the Kapoho coast, where sun-soaked sanctuary awaited in the form of Shangri-La (www.paradisedarling.com). An amazing rental property featuring four Bali-style cottages, an outdoor shower and hot tub, and a private lagoon stocked with fish, Shangri-La is the sort of heavenly haven that will leave you canceling plans just so you can immerse yourself in its serene splendor.
The next morning we set out for a sunrise tour with Lava Ocean Adventures (www.lavaocean.com). Launching before the sun had crested the horizon, we set off down the Kalapana coastline towards a massive plume of billowing smoke. There, glowing streams of fiery magma flow from Kilauea all the way to the Pacific, creating a black beach of lava that has expanded the Big Island's land mass by over 500 acres in the last 25 years.
Returning to Shangri-La after a boat ride that left us delighted to be back on terra firma, we were sad to bid a final farewell to Kapoho, but excited to head north for a visit to the 32-acre Fairmont Orchid (www.fairmont.com/orchid). This 5-star resort offers something for everyone: Luxury lovers can play golf, savor impeccable cuisine and indulge in a relaxing treatment at the Spa Without Walls (all of which are administered in either a tropical garden surrounded by waterfalls or private beach-side tents); adventurous types can paddle an outrigger canoe to watch whales and dolphins on the move or hike through the largest field of petroglyphs in the Pacific; and families can snorkel with Honu in their white sand lagoon or learn about Polynesian history in the Gathering of the Kings cultural show and luau. Naturally, we partook in all of the above.
For our last day, we ascended to Hawaii's highest peak with Mauna Kea Summit Adventures (www.maunakea.com). This awe-inspiring excursion takes you up the world's tallest mountain, which measures 33,476 feet above its base on the floor of the Pacific. After stopping at the visitor center to eat dinner and get acclimated, buses make the ride up Saddle Road to the snow-crested peak at 13,796 feet. Here, above 40% of Earth's atmosphere, we watched the sunset from above the clouds, wearing parkas and snuggling together for warmth. Afterwards, we descended to an area near the visitor center, where impeccable views of the night sky made for an exceptional stargazing experience.
After driving nearly 500 miles and taking a half-dozen tours (including exploring volcanic craters and lava fields from the air with Blue Hawaii Helicopters), our minds were swimming with a cornucopia of vivid memories, from the fresh tropical fruits we'd been served for breakfast our first morning at Holualoa Inn to the excellent massage we received at the Fairmont Orchid just before leaving for the airport. But even after three visits in the past four years, I've yet to experience many of the wonders Hawaii's Big Island has to offer.
Then again, there's always next year...
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